The very first time i was going to try to photograph surfing. I was taken to Huntington beach by my friend Tadzio. We was a bit late. And the surfers was getting up from the water. It was then i took the picture below.
Not so much of "action". But i fell in love with the place. And two yeas ago i tried again, at the same place. Still not happy with the result.
Did not really like the light. Therefore i converted the images into B/W.